Anybody with any 996TT experience? Any Porsche guys in Seattle?

"Formula4speed" (Formula4speed) 09/24/2013 at 09:49 • Filed to: None

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My C5 Z06 is dead. It was taken from me by a lady on her cell phone. It only had 50k miles. It was so young. So young.

I have decided to endeavor to make sure its death was not in vain. Armed with a fat settlement check and a ridiculously low interest rate loan to leverage some cash, I've bumped my budget from 30k to 50k and am looking hard at E92 M3s and 996TTs.

I found what appears to be a too-good-to-be-true, absolute peach of an 03 996TT, which has me scared. It can't be as awesome a deal as it is. I also know the least about 996s of all 911s, so am double-scared.

So, I'm going to arrange to have the car inspected before I fly all the way to seattle (I'm in South Carolina). I need a shop in north seattle that knows the cars, and I need a checklist of things I'd like them to go over.

Here's the checklist so far:

Deliverables:

1. Owner's Manuals, Maintenance Booklet
2. All keys
3. Radio code card
4. Tools
5. Service documents with recalls and TSBs performed
6. Print out of over revs Type 1 and Type 2 error codes

Inspection items:

1. Check for Dual Mass Flywheel Transmission noises (rattling, knocking noises at engine start, load shift, during idling or when switching off the engine). If audible, test needs to be performed by service department to determine if replacement is needed or if working correctly and noise is related to a different component.

2. Check Oil Pressure. If oil pressure light is on, lack of oil pressure when the engine is first started. Non-return check valve is installed between the oil tank and the engine to prevent tank from emptying into the crankcase when engine is turned off. Modified check valve installed from engine number M96/70-64 1 01282. New part has a light blue paint dot.

3. Check for power loss and lack of acceleration. Poor acceleration and loss of power because of the pressure hose connecting the turbocharger inner cooler is loose. New pressure hose as of VIN 99 41S 68 5752 (July 2000). New pressure hose part numbers: 996 110 630 74 (R) and 996 110 631 73 (L)

4. Check for manual transmission damage. Second gear pops off. Caused by a assembly fault. Only occurs on transmissions up to the following number: 6530. Run the car and rollback on the throttle to see if it pops off.

5. Check to see if clutch pedal sticks. Clutch pedal may not return to its initial position or may become stuck. The axial motion in the plug-in couplings and the associated rolling of the sealing ring can admit air into the hydraulic system. A snap ring, PN 999 230 685 40, must be fitted and the system.

6. Check to see if clutch pedal sticks. Clutch pedal may not return to its initial position or may become stuck. Check slave cylinder and accumulator for replacement.

7. Check if the clutch pedal does not fully reach original position. After pressing the clutch, the clutch pedal is slow to come back up and does not fully reach its original position. This is caused by air in the hydraulic system.

8. Check for front axle differential noises. The front-axle differential makes noises in 4th, 5th, and 6th gears when vehicle is accelerated under a slight load (from 30-50mph) in vehicles equipped with manual transmission and Michelin 18" wheels. This is caused by rolling tolerances of the front wheels in relation to the rear wheels in combination with 18" Michelin tires. This is not a fault. The noises neither lead to any damage.

9. Check for noises in the steering. Clicking or grating noises during steering. Grating- This noise occurs when steering movements are made around the center position to full lock position. New stop plate required PN 996 343 107 03. Clicking - This noise occurs shortly before turning the steering wheel to full lock. A loose rod nut causes the noise. The solution is to tighten the strut piston rod fastening nut to the specified torque. Also, a longer piece of hose needs to be installed in the first few turns of the spring to replace shorter one initially in place.

10. Check for loud whistling noise from the engine area . A loud whistling noise can be heard (both inside and outside) from the engine area while driving. The noise is caused by the pressure control valve in the steering oil reservoir. Valve vibrates strongly when hydraulic oil flows through it. Fix is to replace the complete steering oil reservoir with the modified pressure control valve - PN 996 314 920 34

11. Check for noises in the rear seat well. Audible clicking-type noises in the rear seat well due to movements of the transverse reinforcement tube and contact with the rear seat well panel. Fix is to install felt tape between the reinforcement tube and the rear seat well panel.

12. Check the microswitch. Front lid lock issues with micro switch. Micro switch located on the bottom part of the front lid latch may stick causing: the light not to illuminate when the trunk is opened; the light not to go off when the trunk is closed (draining the battery); the alarm horn will sound when locking the car. A new micro switch was installed from the middle of Feb 2000 and can be identified by a yellow or blue paint dot in the micro switch.

13. Check for noises in the door lock area. Catch bar rubbing in the door lock. Fix is to spray silicone lubricant spray in the affected areas (in the inner area of the lock).

14. Check for noises from sunroof frame. Changes in the brackets as of Feb 2001 (from VIN 99 X1S 68 6484). Movement between the new sunroof frame and the roof causes creaking noises. Fix is to install two strips of Teflon tape and retorque bolts to new specs of 9.7Nm(7.4ft-lb).

15. Check for noises in the Tilting/Sliding sunroof. Muffled rattle from rear area of the tilting/sliding sunroof due to the loss of edge guard for the water drain bracket. When the edge guard is missing, the roof liner can bump into the sliding sunroof frame and cause noises. Fix is to install new edge guard for the water drain bracket.

16. Check rear spoiler operation. Rear spoiler hydraulic rams are a common failure point.

17. Check vanity mirror. If it is not working the fix (after validating fuse and light bulb) is to replace the vanity mirror PN 996 731 903 01 01C

18. Check if airbag warning light comes on. If so and it gives: Fault Codes 46 and 49. Fix is to change the seat plug connector and install a new belt buckle (passenger and driver side)

19. Validate that the memory for the seat and mirror work correctly when using the keys. As of model year 2001 if a locked vehicle is opened with the key head remote control, the driver's seat and the door mirror will be set in the position stored in the seat memory. Due to hardware fault, the radio code and the transponder code have been entered in different storage positions in the alarm control unit. Fix is to reprogram all the keys. Spare key is required when doing this.

20. Validate remote control range. If range sucks even after replacing battery the fix is to re-route antenna lead.

21. Check that the VIN matches number on the title and/or other documentation

22. Closely visual inspect the paint. Look closely at every panel. Spend at least 30 seconds per panel. Stand back and look at an entire side of the car. Make sure that the color does not vary (sign of repaint). Check that one wheel is not in better shape than any other (wheel replacement due to accident).

23. Check the tires for wear. Check if all tires are the same brand and type.

24. Check the undercarriage. Look for any scrapes/damage. Ideally put it up on a lift. Look for anything loose or worn. Make sure that the components/wear seems reasonable for the mileage on the car.

25. Check the brake pads and rotors for wear and correct thickness.

26. Check for wheel bearing play.

Anybody got anything to add to that? Anybody know of a good Porsche shop in the north Seattle area?

PS: If I do buy the car, I'm definitely taking a long weekend and driving it back to SC. 4 day road trip in a turbo Porsche, cannonball-run style? Yeah that's getting documented on here for sure.

Edit: yes I know that is a 997TT. I just wanted a pretty TT porsche pic for the leader. Here is the actual car I am looking at:

highmodulus > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 10:01

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Do you mean E30 M3? If so nice collector car, but very different from your last one. If you mean a current E92 M3 with the competition pack, then good times ahead (but still different from the vette).

Good source for 996TT info: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996… The good news is you don't have to worry about IMS issues.

It's a "Porch-uh" > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 10:31

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Get involved with your local PCA chapter. If they're anything like the folks in San Diego (or most car people) they will be happy to talk cars with you. You can also check with the Pacific NW PCA chapter ( http://www.pnwr.org/ ) and get recommendations on a shop to do a pre-purchase inspection for you.

Condolences for your Z06. That's one of the finalists to replace my current race car (a Porsche, funny enough). I hope it gets to live on by being an organ donor for another C5 that has a chance at a good life.

Mikeado > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 10:56

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I don't want to be "that guy", but that's a 997 TT in the pic.

Here's a 996:

hollanddjw 1 > highmodulus 09/24/2013 at 11:17

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What if he meant E39 M5s?

Goshen, formerly Darkcode > Mikeado 09/24/2013 at 11:23

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Came here to say exactly that.

magman007 > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 11:37

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As someone who has traveled multiple times for their cars, you are on the right path. Find the best independent Porsche shop in the area, and have them do a pre purchase inspection. It will only cost you $150 tops, and is worth it. Plus, they are going to point out every little thing in hopes that you or the owner will have them complete the work while the car is in their care. The owner drops it off, they call you for payment, you pay for the work, and negotiate with the owner past that.

highmodulus > hollanddjw 1 09/24/2013 at 12:18

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Yeah, that would make a difference. Based on his budget and the 996TT I assumed that wasn't the case.

Formula4speed > Mikeado 09/24/2013 at 13:28

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Yes I am aware. I just wanted a pretty picture. Knew I should have posted something like "not pictured: a 996TT".

Hell, I guess I could have just put a picture of the actual car up, haha.

Formula4speed > highmodulus 09/24/2013 at 13:29

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Fack, too many Es. E92 M3. Have also been looking at E39 M5s.

highmodulus > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 13:34

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Out of everything mentioned- I would stick to a late model E92 still under warranty (or even better CPO) or that sweet (hopefully 996 TT)- just remember to budget for repairs, as they are expensive if you get the Turbo.

Formula4speed > It's a "Porch-uh" 09/24/2013 at 13:34

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Good call on the PCA idea, the car is PCA registered so they may even know the previous owner.

And thanks for the condolences. It was a fun car and an excellent track tool, really helped improve my skills. I don't think you can beat the pure performance per dollar of it right now, only reason I'm not aiming for another one or a c6Z is because I've already done that and want to try something new. The guts will hopefully live on in my next hotrod project—working to put together a 2nd gen camaro or firebird track rat, an ls6 should complement that nicely.

Mikeado > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 13:40

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Fair enough, I guess. Just remember that, in future, there will always be a pedant... watching... waiting... Googling......

I hope the Turbo you're going to look at is a good 'un. I've always liked the 996T, partly because of the Need For Speed game that came out at the same time.

Formula4speed > highmodulus 09/24/2013 at 13:40

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That's basically the exact argument I'm having with myself. I know that the E92 is a practically better choice, but I already have a 993, love the way 996s drive, and have been dreaming of a 911 turbo since childhood. Gonna go over the car with a fine toothed comb before I buy, and keep about 5k cash ready to go if something does break. From what I'm reading the 996TTs were actually a very very sturdy car which is helping me feel more comfortable with the idea of not having a warranty.

Formula4speed > Mikeado 09/24/2013 at 13:52

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Thanks man! I hope so too. I'm pretty excited about it as I, too, grew up loving them and, having now owned a 993, feel that if you can get past the love/hate looks of the 996, they take all the best parts of the 993 and enhance them even further. I was expecting the 996 to feel a lot more like a 997, but man it is a much more involved and classic experience.

highmodulus > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 13:53

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Based on that, buy a Turbo and don't look back. And post pictures!!

Formula4speed > highmodulus 09/24/2013 at 13:58

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I'm with you. Plus if the turbo ends up being the wrong choice a year or two down the road, depreciation will be negligible, so I should be able to dump it, get my cash back out, and pick up an M3 as needed. The other way around seems less likely based on the continued depreciation of every previous-gen m3.

If I really drive this thing all the way from washington to south carolina I'll be posting a lot more than pictures, I promise!

It's a "Porch-uh" > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 14:28

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Just picked up a 2003 M5. Been very happy with it, but it's no 911 Turbo (or Z06).

It's a "Porch-uh" > Formula4speed 09/24/2013 at 14:30

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Cats Exotics is very well known for selling very prime examples of cars, so I don't think you could go too wrong here.

It's a "Porch-uh" > magman007 09/24/2013 at 14:32

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Might be a bit more than $150 for a 911, especially if you want them to very extremely thorough.

magman007 > It's a "Porch-uh" 09/24/2013 at 15:18

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$200 tops, I have had bmw's done for $100 at one of the best shops in the north east. Its an inspection, and everything the OP posted should be covered typically. Even if it is more, its well worth it!

Formula4speed > It's a "Porch-uh" 09/24/2013 at 18:13

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Excellent news! Always good to hear a positive endorsement. The car certainly looks absolutely cherry.

Formula4speed > It's a "Porch-uh" 09/24/2013 at 18:16

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I think each one is very special in its own way. They're all the magnum opus of their respective marque at the time, and a legend in their own right. I wouldn't kick any of the three out of the garage, that's for sure.